Hiking to Montenegro’s Kotor Fortress

When night falls over the rugged mountains cradling Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, it becomes very clear why the country’s native name, Crna Gora, means “black mountain.” As the sun is snuffed out each night, the mountains make like a chameleon, going from steel grey to a black silhouette. Eventually, the water of the mighty bayContinue reading “Hiking to Montenegro’s Kotor Fortress”

The Windows of Zagreb, Croatia

My ‘window collecting’ mission in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital city, was as hurried as our day and a half there. Arriving via Germany, Austria, and Slovenia earlier in the morning, we settled into our apartment, and took to the streets, while dodging raindrops and securing some goodies at one of the local supermarkets. Our whirlwind exploration took usContinue reading “The Windows of Zagreb, Croatia”

The Windows of Novi Sad, Serbia

Novi Sad dramatically welcomes visitors with its formidable fortress and clock tower boasting reversed hour and minute hands. Like so many strategic spots in the region, Novi Sad also has a complicated history. It’s been conquered by the Celts and Romans, Byzantines, Hungarians, Ottomans and Habsburgs. The city’s complex past is reflected in Novi Sad’s eclectic architecture, and well-illustrated by the whimsical windowsContinue reading “The Windows of Novi Sad, Serbia”

Bird’s Eye Views & Sapphire Blues: Walking the Walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia’s gem on the glimmering Adriatic, is undeniably touristic. However, it is also indisputably alluring. Thanks to its rich history, immaculately-groomed limestone buildings, commanding seaside position, and formidable, 7th-century fortifications, the city attracts tourists from around the world. Having discovered the rewards of off-season travel, Shawn and I visited the so-called ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ one April. We wereContinue reading “Bird’s Eye Views & Sapphire Blues: Walking the Walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia”

Exploring the Ancient Roman Ruins of Salona: A Day Trip from Split, Croatia

The ancient Roman city of Salona is located near Split, Croatia, in the city of Solin. Today, this landscape is dotted with abstract ruins, leaving much to the imagination. However, about 1,700 years ago, Salona was home to more than 40,000 people, making it one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire. As weContinue reading “Exploring the Ancient Roman Ruins of Salona: A Day Trip from Split, Croatia”

Hvar Island: A Croatian Odyssey of Music, History & Wine

The Croatian island of Hvar is renowned for its 2,800 hours of sunshine, deep-blue water, luxury yachts, and summertime nightlife. When we visited there during an early-spring weekend, however, Shawn and I encountered something quite different from the Hvar of postcards: refreshing rain showers, landscapes that appeared to be wearing a sepia filter because of cloudsContinue reading “Hvar Island: A Croatian Odyssey of Music, History & Wine”

Something Abuzz About Belgrade: Things to Do in Serbia’s Capital

Belgrade. It’s an old city with a new vibe, and as we discovered during a whirlwind two days there, it is abuzz with creative energy, innovation, and tradition. In one corner of town a woman wearing a babushka-style scarf sells lavender, white and cranberry-colored flowers at a market, alongside vendors peddling a bounty of cherries, strawberries, andContinue reading “Something Abuzz About Belgrade: Things to Do in Serbia’s Capital”

The Eclectic Windows of Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

To wander Sarajevo’s streets is to journey through the centuries while diving into a grab bag of architectural styles. In the city’s Baščaršija district, which feels like Istanbul in miniature, artisans craft Turkish-style copper coffee pots under towering minarets and mosques dating back to the 16th century. Along the Miljacka River, the city’s Vijećnica building —Continue reading “The Eclectic Windows of Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina”