The Enduring Buddha at War-Ravaged Wat Phia Wat, Laos

Wat Phia Wat and its focal point — a war-scarred Buddha statue — are located in Muang Khoun, only 30 kilometers from Phonsavan, Laos. Muang Khoun was previously the region’s capital city, but all that remains of the capital today are the fragments of Wat Phia Wat, as well as a few stupas.

Given rugged dirt roads we’d encountered just days earlier on a tour of the Plain of Jars, we were not eager to hop back into a tuktuk and endure more bumpiness to get to Wat Phia Wat. (During that earlier drive, we’d felt like kernels of corn being tossed in a popcorn popper!) Nevertheless, to better understand the American Secret War in Laos, Shawn and I felt it was important to see Wat Phia Wat, so we pressed on.

Once underway, we were pleasantly surprised by how smooth the asphalt road actually was. We were also rewarded with pleasant views, catching glimpses of what rice paddies look like during the dry season.

Arriving in Muang Khoun, we found ourselves moved by the sight of the Buddha statue, which has endured so much over the centuries. Sadly, only the temple’s brick foundation and a few columns survive.

Wat Phia Wat is said to have been constructed in 1322, but since that time it’s faced numerous bouts of destruction.

When the Chinese invaded In the 14th century, the structure was damaged, leaving the Buddha statue’s arm severed. It was soon rebuilt.

In 1953, during the First Indochina War, Wat Phia Wat was again destroyed — this time by the French.

In 1966, after Wat Phia Wat had been rebuilt a second time, the temple was once more shattered — this time by American bombing raids.

Today, with a missing eye, scarred right cheek and lip, the Buddha statue looks rather melancholy. Nevertheless, it is revered by worshippers, who still pray here. You can see tiny Buddha statues they’ve left behind, as well as the remains of incense sticks.

I can only hope that Wat Phia Wat will be spared future ravages of war.

A damaged Buddha rises from the ruins of Wat Phia Wat in Laos.

Close-up of the damaged Buddha at Wat Phia Wat

Two women pray at the foot of a damaged Buddha at Wat Phia Wat in Laos.

A close-up of the damaged Buddha statue at the Wat Phia Wat temple in Laos.

A close-up of the hand of the damaged Buddha statue at the Wat Phia Wat Temple in Laos.

A glimpse of the damaged Buddha statue at Wat Pia Wat in Laos. The photo is taken through a broken-out hole in the brick wall.

A damaged wall and Buddha statue at Laos' Wat Phia Wat Temple.

A donation box at the damaged Wat Phia Wat Temple in Laos. The writing on the box is English and Laotian. The English says, "Donations Please."

A woman climbs the steps at the ruined Wat Piha Wat Temple in Laos.

The remains of a reddish-orange brick wall at the Wat Phia Wat Temple in Laos.

A pile of orange-red bricks at the Wat Phia Wat Ruins in Laos.

A ruined column and the damaged Buddha statue at Wat Phia Wat in Laos.

A close-up of a Buddha statue's damaged head at Wat Phia Wat in Laos. The statue's right eye is chipped.

Where in the World?

About the author

Hi! My name is Tricia Mitchell. I delight in telling stories about my slow travels through more than 65 countries. Some of my highlights have included sharing meals with locals in Armenia, Cambodia, and Tunisia; sipping sparkling wine with French cousins in Alsace; milking goats in a sleepy Bulgarian village; and training with a Japanese mine-clearance team in Laos. My husband, Shawn, and I are based in France’s Loire Valley.

8 responses to “The Enduring Buddha at War-Ravaged Wat Phia Wat, Laos”

indiaphare

January 29, 2012

Beautiful pictures. It looks absolutely amazing, I am so jealous!

1. Tricia A. Mitchell
  
  January 31, 2012
  
  Hi Indiaphare – thanks for your comment. The sites in Laos are amazing, but this one was particularly haunting considering the temple’s destruction. We’re happy to now be in beautiful gem, Luang Prabang!
  
Andrew Petcher

January 29, 2012

He does look rather sorry for himself! Great pictures again!

1. Tricia A. Mitchell
  
  January 31, 2012
  
  After surviving three wars, I don’t blame him! It’s no wonder that the locals view this as a very special Buddha…
  
Wanderlustress

April 29, 2012

Tricia, I can’t get enough of your gorgeous pictures in Laos! I am so excited and feel tremendously lucky to have the opportunity to live there for several years. Though I’ll be based in Vientiane, I hope to get out to some of the places you’ve shared with us here. Thank you.

1. Tricia A. Mitchell
  
  April 29, 2012
  
  Wanderlustress, as they say in Laos, “khawp jai lai lai.” So happy you enjoyed the images! My visits to Laos were very special and we’re considering projects to help there – if even small.
  
  It’s exciting that you and your family will soon be heading to Vientiane. During my two visits, I really enjoyed the city’s vibe. Your little ones might have fun exploring Buddha Park – a place I’ll be posting on soon. (Yes, after 5 months of an Asian sabbatical, I still have thousands of photos and tales to share!)
  
  I look forward to hearing about your new life chapter – so glad our paths crossed!
  
Annie

October 7, 2016

Thank you so much for sharing Lao history,bring tears to my eyes. I can’t imagine what they went through. The Buddha statue represent the strong people of Laos.

1. Tricia A. Mitchell
  
  October 9, 2016
  
  Hi Annie, I’m happy to hear that you found this post touching. Since the people of Laos are still being gravely impacted by this unexploded ordnance (UXO), I was elated to hear recent news of the $90 million U.S. commitment to removing UXO in Laos over the next 3 years. It seems a bit late in coming, but here’s hoping it will make a difference! Are you thinking of traveling to Laos soon?