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Celebrating Mariä Himmelfahrt Day in Oberammergau, Germany

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As the clock edged toward nine thirty in the morning, the stream of villagers dressed in traditional German folk costume passing by our window in Oberammergau, Germany grew. Ladies in elaborate Dirndls and men in Lederhosen pedaled by on their bikes. Some navigated their bikes’ handlebars with one hand, with elaborate wildflower bouquets in the other.

Curious as to why the locals were dressed in Trachten, I headed to the nearby St. Peter & Paul Church and Cemetery, from which the sounds of a choir and small orchestra streamed out. Some villagers placed bouquets on the graves of family members buried in the church cemetery. They had come to the church to celebrate Mariä Himmelfahrt Day, or the Feast of the Assumption, a Catholic holiday that is also celebrated publicly in some German states every August the 15th. Many government offices and businesses are closed.

A resident holds a bouquet of herbs and flowers on Maria Himmelfahrt Day.

Inside the church, about half of the congregation was dressed in traditional Bavarian attire. Women and young girls donned puffy-sleeved white blouses and long, vibrant aprons that one would commonly associate with Oktoberfest, and older ladies wore elaborate hats and antique gold jewelry. Men and boys sported Lederhosen, checked button-down shirts, and woolen jackets. The stringed instruments hit high notes as locals sang familiar songs by heart.

Women holding bouquets of flowers on Maria Himmelfahrt Day in Bavaria.
Edelweiss and red begonias (left), and women carrying bouquets of flowers and herbs to be blessed (right).

Those who celebrate Mariä Himmelfahrt Day collect flowers and healing herbs from their gardens or the countryside. Herbs such as St. John’s Wort, Thyme, Chamomile, Verbena and Clover are traditionally included in the floral arrangements. They then carefully arrange them into a bouquet called a Kräuterbüschel, taking the bundle of blooms to the church to be blessed during the August 15 service. The origin of the practice is uncertain, but legend has it that when Mary ascended into heaven, a beautiful fragrance emerged from the flowers. The practice is said to be one thousand years old.

A father and son walk through the church grounds (left). In the late-morning light, Edelweiss flowers twinkle with water droplets (right).
People celebrate Maria Himmelfahrt Day in Germany.

After the service had ended, an informal procession poured out of the church, with families and older couples carrying bouquets ranging in size from one that would easily fit in the palm of the hand, to floral arrangements as tall as adolescent boys. When another onlooker asked a teenage boy to pose with the bouquet he was carrying, he hid his face behind the flora in an embarrassed fashion. The older ladies, however, looked regal as they passed by, obviously well-practiced in carrying out the tradition. Participants then strolled back through the village to their homes, where they would place the bouquets to bless their dwellings.

A headstone in Oberammergau's cemetery, and people celebrating Maria Himmelfahrt Day.
A praying figure atop a headstone, with Oberammergau’s Forstbetrieb, or Forest Management office in the background (left). On the right, a boy carries an especially tall bouquet.
Oberammergau’s buildings are elaborately painted. In German, these paintings are called Lüftlmalerei (left). On the right, church members leave the Maria Himmelfahrt ceremony at St. Peter and Paul Church.
Headstones and flowers in Oberammergau, Germany's St. Peter and Paul Cemetery.
Flowers and headstones inside the cemetery of Saint Peter and Paul.
A woman leaves the ceremony (left). On the right, A dried bouquet of herbs, known as Kräuterbüschel. It was given to my mother by a friend last year.

 

Where in the World?

Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.

Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

About the author

Hi! My name is Tricia Mitchell. I delight in telling stories about my slow travels through more than 65 countries. Some of my highlights have included sharing meals with locals in Armenia, Cambodia, and Tunisia; sipping sparkling wine with French cousins in Alsace; milking goats in a sleepy Bulgarian village; and training with a Japanese mine-clearance team in Laos. My husband, Shawn, and I are based in France’s Loire Valley.

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20 responses to “Celebrating Mariä Himmelfahrt Day in Oberammergau, Germany”

  1. belocchio Avatar

    Gorgeous and fascinating vignettes of a special religious occasion. Virginia

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Greetings Virginia, how has your summer been going? I’ve been enjoying spending the summer in this traditional part of Germany, and seeing such cultural practices just literally outside of our backdoor!

      Are your son and daughter-in-law now in Southeast Asia?

      1. belocchio Avatar

        Tricia, yesterday was Andrea’s birthday, so last night dinner here on The Farm. Andrea had spent the day shopping for clothes for the trip. They are both excited. They leave around the middle of October. We have had an exception summer – day after day of sunshine. I love it. XX V.

      2. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        Virginia, so nice to hear that Mother Nature has been good to you this summer. :) Are you putting in any special requests for souvenirs for them to pick up while in Southeast Asia? With your creative flair, I can imagine you loving some of the crafting-worthy materials there.

  2. corneliaweberphotography Avatar

    Oh Tricia, don’t make me home sick now. Beautiful pictures, I can sense that the air is a little too crisp for a summer day.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Cornelia, sorry, it wasn’t my intent to make you homesick. :) You’re right that it is a tad chilly here (as evidenced by the ladies wearing light sweaters). Do you remember summers being this way when you lived here?

      We’re headed to the Gartenfest des Volkstrachtenvereins Oberammergau later today. I’ll do a symbolic toast to you then. How is summer in California, by the way? I do miss hotter summer weather, but the cool nights make for very comfortable sleeping here.

  3. the eternal traveller Avatar

    Your photos capture this day beautifully Tricia. We will be back in Germany for seven days at the end of September and I am looking forward to it so much.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Carol, will this trip be combined with yours to Belgium as well? What parts of Germany are you planning to see? The weather should still be nice then. :)

      1. the eternal traveller Avatar

        Yes, we are going to Cologne and Wurzburg before we fly home from Frankfurt. I’m hoping that we will have good weather.

      2. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        Both are such wonderful cities. We were just speaking about Würzburg and its Residence, vineyards and fortress yesterday. Would love to get back there in autumn! Lucky you. :)

      3. the eternal traveller Avatar

        We were there for several days in 2011 visiting friends and we are staying with them again this time. It will be lovely. We haven’t been to Cologne before and I’m looking forward to seeing it very much.

      4. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        Carol, I was in Cologne during Fasching (Mardi Gras) celebrations and also to see the impressive cathedral, which I’m sure you’ll have a heyday with since you love photography. I’ve also heard good things about the Chocolate Museum: http://www.schokoladenmuseum.de/start.html . If you go, I’d be curious to hear what it’s like!

  4. ruthincolorado Avatar

    Lovely. I adore this part of Germany. Are you visiting your family? I’m a bit behind on blog reading but will catch up with your travels over the weekend. ;)

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      I remember you saying that you felt quite at home in this part of the world, Ruth. :) Yes, we’re again visiting family, but haven’t yet made it to Partnachklamm. Today, we’re staying local in Oberammergau (about 30 min. from Garmisch) and going to a fest.

      Wishing you a wonderful weekend on your side of the Atlantic!

      1. ruthincolorado Avatar

        Same to you, Tricia! Looking forward to your photos.

  5. Browsing the Atlas Avatar

    This must have been quite a sight. Traditional Bavarian costume is so appealing to me. Must hark back to my German roots.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Juliann, it was a lovely event to stumble upon! Have you picked up any traditional Bavarian costumes during your travels to Germany? I’m also easily swayed by clothes with an ethnic twist, and since I was a little girl have had a Dirndl or two. :)

  6. travelerlynne Avatar

    What a beautiful tradition to uphold. And to see young and old participate is heartwarming. Those painted buildings are incredibly detailed.Lucky you to be there.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Whenever we walk about town, I exclaim to Shawn how lucky we are to visit here for a while. :) The air is so fresh, and I love watching traditions like this. We already have our calendar marked with upcoming cultural events, several of which focus around the harvest.

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