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Flourishes Fit for a Fairy Tale: Admiring the Details in Trogir, Croatia

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“Traveling is almost like talking with men of other centuries.”

René Descartes

How Trogir tempts me with its fanciful flourishes fit for a fairy tale!

At almost every turn in the Croatian town’s labyrinthine lanes, there emerge weathered faces, coats of arms, religious motifs, and even a nautical-inspired element. Embarking on a grocery shopping mission is a hapless endeavor, for I always become distracted, craning my neck to see the treasures on the façades above. At times, I expect my trusty Nikon (or husband) to start puffing out smoke, exhausted from my maniacal snapping.

A coat of arms featuring a rooster in the Croatian town of Trogir.
A coat of arms featuring an angel in Trogir, Croatia.
Trogir architecture
Trogir architecture

I also find myself torn between wanting to be a symbologist or art historian, or simply a child playing hide & seek in this UNESCO World Heritage-listed town that has been inhabited for more than 2,300 years, and shaped by Greek, Roman and Venetian cultures.

Trogir architecture coat of arm

My husband and I have solved some of the mysteries about these limestone motifs, thanks to chats with locals, and scant research. On the Ćipiko Palaces’ south gate (image above) is the Latin saying nosce te ipsum (know thyself). A father and son built these neighboring palaces, which are heavily adorned with multiple family coats of arms.

Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture

Yet so many other details around town remain a mystery that I wish to unravel… Perhaps it’s better that way.

Trogir architecture
Trogir architecture
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture
Trogir architecture
A coat of arm in the coastal Croatian city of Trogir depicts an arm holding a saber.
A coat of arm on a stone home in Trogir, Croatia depicts a winged dragon.
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture coat of arm
Trogir architecture coat of arm

Where have you most found yourself getting lost in the details? Please share your thoughts in the comments.

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Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.

Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

About the author

Hi! My name is Tricia Mitchell. I delight in telling stories about my slow travels through more than 65 countries. Some of my highlights have included sharing meals with locals in Armenia, Cambodia, and Tunisia; sipping sparkling wine with French cousins in Alsace; milking goats in a sleepy Bulgarian village; and training with a Japanese mine-clearance team in Laos. My husband, Shawn, and I are based in France’s Loire Valley.

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26 responses to “Flourishes Fit for a Fairy Tale: Admiring the Details in Trogir, Croatia”

  1. Mary Ann Mitchell Avatar
    Mary Ann Mitchell

    Beautiful and fascinating, Trish. Great chatting with you yesterday. Love, Bionic Mama

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      We’re glad you can travel along with us virtually, Mary Ann! Tomorrow, we’re headed on our wine-tasting trip. So excited; we’ll of course share the details here. :) Hugs from both of us.

  2. Madhu Avatar

    In Rhodes, and these crests remind me of it! Trying to decipher the secrets encoded in those stone tablets is certainly fascinating. Curious about the ones with weapons, particularly the flails. Neat post Tricia :-)

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Me too, Madhu (curious about the flail). I think we’re going on a guided tour next week, so I’ll have to follow up. That particular coat of arms was in the City Hall/Duke’s Palace, and there’s an incredible Gothic staircase in the courtyard where all the crests are.

      I hate to think of going to other places when we’re already in such a beautiful one, but Rhodes sounds really cool! Maybe, just maybe we’ll make it there this summer. How much did you spend in Greece?

  3. rigmover Avatar
    rigmover

    Great post Tricia and stunning shots.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Mark, thank you! Guess I’m tempting you to make a return trip to Croatia. :)

  4. restlessjo Avatar

    I’m not so hot on what they represent, Tricia. Just fascinated by the incredible detail. Some of these are very beautiful.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      I agree, Jo, that some of them have a bit macabre details, but could you elaborate a bit more? As Carol mentioned, it’s impressive that we are admiring this work centuries later.

  5. the eternal traveller Avatar

    I like to imagine the craftsmen who worked on all these ornamentations. They were highly skilled and they probably didn’t think about us admiring their work centuries later.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Carol, I was thinking about that the other day! How long did a piece take to do? Were they mostly done by local artists, or some traveling throughout the region? Just like the Descartes quote attests: “Traveling is almost like talking with men of other centuries…” I love the sense of history here.

      1. the eternal traveller Avatar

        I’m enjoying seeing it from your point of view too. I think we will have to go there one day.

      2. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        It comes as no surprise that I highly recommend it. The weather is quite pleasant this time of year and there’s no battling to be done with crowds. I’ll be happy to share any pointers once you do.

  6. pwtravelblog Avatar

    Tricia – As always, a lovely post, accompanied by beautiful photography.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Thank you, PWTravelblog. It’s been quite fun unwrapping all the little treasures that are tucked away in this town these past 3 weeks!

  7. Our Adventure in Croatia Avatar
    Our Adventure in Croatia

    great images

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Thank you – you’re so lucky to live here year-round!

      1. Our Adventure in Croatia Avatar
        Our Adventure in Croatia

        we don’t…. we are in (not-so-sunny) London, and come to Trogir for our holidays. Will be there for Easter. Enjoy! :)

      2. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        Ah, the best of both worlds! Then I shall send you some Trogir sunshine for today. :)

      3. Our Adventure in Croatia Avatar
        Our Adventure in Croatia

        hope to read more of your posts on Trogir + Dalmatia! :)

      4. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        That’s nice of you to say! I’ve only shared a handful from our time so far, but will be writing one soon on our wonderful wine-tasting experience. We like it here so much – no wonder we’ve extended!

      5. Our Adventure in Croatia Avatar
        Our Adventure in Croatia

        where did you go for the wine tasting? looking forward to a post about it!

      6. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

        We went to Split and Kaštela. I just posted a video/write-up on it here: https://triciaannemitchell.com/2013/03/06/a-wine-tasting-holiday-in-croatia-zinfandel-tour/

        It was a splendid experience. Perhaps you’ll want to explore these places too when you get back to Trogir. :)

  8. Tina Schell Avatar

    Hi Tricia, am so happy to find your blog. It seems we have much in common. Have been to many of the same places and seem to “focus” on similar things. Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      Tina, the feeling is mutual, and what a clever play on words. :) So much to explore on your photography site, but I did see a few familiar destinations (the Redwoods and Luang Prabang). It’ll be fun to explore more.

  9. Dalo 2013 Avatar

    Another great post. You have a wonderful eye for detail, creating such interesting and meaningful photos. Cheers!

    1. Tricia A. Mitchell Avatar

      That’s kind of you to say; thank you. Indeed, it’s easy to delight in and get lost in the details in Trogir. We’re just around the corner from Trogir now (after having spent last winter there) so we’re eager to get back and see friends, and the town’s mélange of beautiful architecture.