As we walked from the town of Oberammergau to the neighboring village of Unterammergau, Germany, numerous horses trotted past us. The animals’ beautifully decorated manes and tails blew in the late autumn breeze. Not to be outdone by the horses’ distinguished appearances, the owners also sported fine Bavarian attire. Men wore grey woolen jackets finished with deer-horn buttons, and dark green and brown Lederhosen. The ladies, on the other hand, sported Dirndls with colorful flowing skirts, as well as button-down sweaters to protect them from the chilly air.
On horseback and on foot, we were all heading through the idyllic Bavarian countryside to Unterammergau’s 50th annual Leonhardiritt or Leonhardifahrt procession and horse-blessing ceremony. Such events are held in parts of Germany and Austria mostly during the autumn months to honor St. Leonhard, the patron saint of agricultural animals. The occasion is a way of celebrating the horses that have historically played such an important role in rural communities.
Even before the parade officially started, the mood was festive. Participants on horseback poured liqueur-laden hot beverages into mugs while catching up on village gossip, as band-members with impeccably-shined brass instruments warmed up. Though they’d only been lined up for the parade for a short time, some spunky horses already looked impatient, ready to escape the upcoming parade in favor of a trot through the countryside.
The event commenced with a procession, featuring brawny, Clydesdale-like horses pulling carts. There were also fluffy miniature horses, bands from neighboring villages, local dignitaries, and church leaders. After the one hundred or so horses had triumphantly trotted through the tiny town, they headed to the Kappelkirche in Unterammergau’s outskirts, where the blessing would take place. The highway intersecting the parade route was temporarily barricaded so that the human and equine participants, along with approximately 5,000 spectators, could transition from the village to the rural chapel.
Police officers on horseback, as well as a Munich bishop had all come to Unterammergau to facilitate the open-air blessing, which lasted for approximately one hour. Having gotten up around 4 am for mane and tail-grooming sessions, I noticed some yawning owners and restless horses fidgeting during the ceremony. The Catholic service culminated with the bishop and priests blessing the horses with spritzes of water, while altar boys carried silver thuribles that had incense wafting from within. The participants and their horses then returned to their respective villages, while spectators congregated in Unterammergau’s town square for a traditional concert.
Where in the World?
Planning Pointers:
- The village of Unterammergau is located about 90 km (55 miles) southwest of Munich.
- The Leonhardiritt horse blessing ceremony usually takes place the last Sunday in October. To be certain of the date, check the Ammergauer Alpen website.
- To get to Unterammergau or Oberammergau using mass transit, research the Bavaria Ticket (German: “Bayern Ticket”). As of 2025, these tickets start at €32. You can use the Bayern Ticket for most trains, trams, and city buses, making it a good deal if you’ll be doing a lot of exploring in one day. You can purchase tickets online, via a ticket machine, or in person.
- Are you looking for a guesthouse or hotel in Oberammergau? Here is my round-up of hotels organized by theme.
- Need more inspiration? This link contains an index of all my posts from Germany.
Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.
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