Travels with Tricia

Earlier this autumn, a trio of hot-air balloons escorted us home. It was the golden hour, and Shawn and I’d first spotted the balloons drifting over France’s Loire River, near the city of Saumur.

A few moments later, the balloons (they’re known as “Montgolfières” in French) crossed the so-called “wild” Loire River. Then, they flew over the slate rooftops of Saumur’s pretty town center. Eventually, the balloons drifted over Saumur’s storybook castle, which has origins dating back several centuries.

The balloons’ navy blue, yellow, pink, and plum-colored fabric paired well with Saumur’s white-stone buildings, which are crafted from a type of limestone called tuffeau. 

As we walked from the river’s edge to the apartment that had been our home for the past month, the balloons seemingly followed us. Craning our necks, we waved to the passengers peering over the edge of the sturdy baskets, high above us. A flame periodically roared inside each basket, causing the balloons to soar higher.

Seeing the balloons in flight prompted us to reminisce about our own hot-air balloon ride in the Loire Valley 13 years earlier. It was summertime. Shawn and I’d just gotten engaged, and I’d organized the balloon flight as a birthday present for him. Along with a few other passengers, we would glide over the Loire Valley’s verdant countryside and several châteaux. Our pilot seemed to enjoy teasing us, because, instead of keeping a wide berth from obstacles, he allowed the balloon’s basket to flirt with the treetops below. It was thrilling, beautiful—and a bit scary—all at the same time.

Fast forward 13 years, and we’d found ourselves in the Loire Valley again. This time the region was dressed in slightly autumn hues.

As we continued to reminiscence about that adventure more than a decade before, we reached our tiny townhouse. Stepping through the stone building’s threshold, we waved à bientôt (see you soon) to the three balloons. 

I don’t know if we’ll embark on another balloon ride anytime soon. But since we’re spending more time in the Loire Valley, where hot-air ballooning is popular, I know we’ll be seeing more of these beauties!

These were a few of our favorite things to do in Saumur:

• Picnic on the grounds of Saumur’s majestic castle. The grounds are free to enter and the views of Saumur and the Loire are fantastic.
• Shop for fresh produce and local products at Saumur’s Saturday market on the main square, Place Saint-Pierre. There’s also a Thursday market on the Île d’Offard (Offard Island). Our favorite purchases were quince, apples, multicolored, chubby carrots; cheese with black pepper, and a few international treats: Cambodian spring rolls and Middle Eastern stuffed vine leaves. Most of all, we enjoyed chatting with the vendors and learning about the extensive variety of produce grown in the region, including a staggering array of mushrooms, pears, apples, and more!
• Stroll Saumur’s quieter streets and admire the architecture of the centuries-old hôtels particuliers (grand townhouses), which feature stone turrets and mighty wooden doors.
• Walk or jog along the Loire or Thouet Rivers; the latter has a fantastic path that’s shaded.
• Take a day trip to the charming village of flower-filled Montsoreau. We packed a picnic and enjoyed it under the shade of a handsome tree while watching migrating birds and elegant swans by the Loire River. Later, we enjoyed coffee on the grounds of the Hôtel Le Bussy where we had splendid views of the 15th-century Montsoreau Castle. You can travel from Saumur to Montsoreau by bus. Find the Line 1 schedule on the Ogalo Mass Transit website.
• Take a day trip to the Fontevraud-l’Abbaye (Fontevraud Abbey) and stroll the scenic grounds of this monastery-turned-prison-turned-historic-monument. Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II, and Richard the Lionheart are also entombed here. You can travel from Saumur to Fontevraud by bus. Find the Line 1 schedule on the Ogalo Mass Transit website.
• Hop on the train and spend the day in the city of Angers, where we had a lovely lunch at Le Mail Restaurant while overlooking a gorgeous park with some of the most fantastic flowerbeds I’d seen lately. We’ll visit the interior of Angers’ castle and the celebrated Apocalypse Tapestry the next time we visit Angers; this trip was all about soaking up the sunshine and walking around the city.
• Renting an electric rental car for 2 days and meeting a herd of 10 alpacas at La Petite Ferme d’Alpagas Sanzay. Our little road-trip also allowed us to see a few castles and fortresses (Brézé, Montreuil Bellay, and Chinon). We also stopped by Pommes Tapées du Val de Loire to learn about the local delicacy of “smashed apples.” We sat just outside the cave restaurant and savored a café gourmand with the apple and dollops of Crémet d’Anjou, a red-berry sauce, and Chantilly cream.
• Bike along the Loire on the Loire à Vélo route (This is on our must-do list the next time we visit Saumur!)

Here are more scenes from Saumur:

Where in the World?

Planning Pointers:

• The city of Saumur is located in western France, between Angers to the northwest (about 60 km; 40 miles) and Tours to the northeast (65 km; 40 miles). The train connects Saumur to both cities.
• For more information about the city of Saumur and the surrounding area, see the Saumur Office of Tourism website.
• If you’re curious about the history of hot-air balloons, have a peek at this article about the two brothers, Joseph and Étienne Montgolfier, who invented this aircraft in the late 18th century. The first flight took place in Versailles, with a sheep, duck and rooster on board.

Looking for more France trip-planning inspiration?

From a serendipitous invite to share a bottle of wine at a local’s home in Burgundy to a visit to the spectacular Pont-du-Gard, see all of my posts from France.

Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.