One of the most popular meals in Croatia’s Dalmatia region is peka, a blend of vegetables and meat drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with herbs, and then baked to perfection under a bell-like dome, or ispod čripnje. You’ll see it listed on menus throughout the region, and if you are lucky enough to be invited into the home of a Dalmatian family, it’s likely that you’ll feast upon it for dinner. It is traditional for Dalmatians to cook peka in their fireplaces at home. Many Croatian families, especially those in the countryside, even have a special oven outdoors for cooking.
“Nothing makes the earth seem so spacious as to have friends at a distance; they make the latitudes and longitudes.”
-Henry David Thoreau
Our time in Trogir, Croatia is rapidly ticking down, and we are getting sentimental about leaving this special corner of the world that we have called home for the past seven weeks. Today, we will be heading to Dubrovnik, the so called ‘pearl of the Adriatic,’ by bus. It is a bittersweet morning. Continue reading “A Farewell to Trogir, Croatia”
Sometimes, fear can get the best of you, and here in Trogir, Croatia, I must confess that it did.
Whenever I explore a new city, I like getting high above it, and despite an aversion to heights, I’ve climbed some of Europe’s most iconic church towers: Notre Dame de Paris, Germany’s Ulm Cathedral and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. On a recent spring morning, however, I couldn’t muster up the courage to conquer the bell tower of the Saint Lawrence Cathedral, Trogir’s most famous monument.
Perhaps I shouldn’t have done my research in advance. One reader had dubbed the structure the ‘tower of terror’ and many Trip Advisor reviews warned the faint of heart of the unnerving climb. So, I prepared myself for the ascent, leaving anything at our apartment that might be a candidate for rappelling down the infamous stairwell’s cavern. My rings stayed at home, and so did my purse.
As our new friend’s sailboat, Jonathan III, powered itself away from the marina, I watched as the city of Trogir faded off into the distance, blending in with the sparkling blue horizon of the Adriatic. With each second, the 2,300 year-old town looked more and more like a tiny, medieval Lego land.
Trogir was our Croatian home away from home for two memorable months. This picturesque old town has a fascinating history that goes back more than 2,300 years — in fact, it’s actually situated on an island!
During our first weeks in Trogir, we preferred to soak up the town’s details bit by bit, leaving much to imagination. However, when the opportunity presented itself to go on a walking tour with Natalija, a new friend and certified tour guide, we decided it was time we properly unravel the mysteries of the ancient town.
During the early morning hours, the streets of Trogir belong to the city’s canine residents. The dogs (known as pas in Croatian) roam the network of narrow streets in the old town, going about their business in a carefree manner. Many are leash-less and solo, out for an adventure in the ancient town.
While out photographing last week, I rounded a corner and encountered this scruffy fellow. He paused, as if I’d just caught him in the midst of a mischievous act, posed for the camera, and then trotted over to say hi, before making his rounds in the neighborhood.
We’ve hit a bit of a wet patch of weather this week in Trogir, with rain dancing down onto the rooftops by day and by night. It’s the kind of weather that finds us making our own sunshine. Though I’m longing to explore more of this charming town on the Adriatic, as well as more of nearby Split (where we went wine tasting last week), the daily sprinkles offer the perfect excuse to catch up on work indoors and reminisce about our home-away-from-home’s marvelous blue sky scenes.