One of the most popular meals in Croatia’s Dalmatia region is peka, a blend of vegetables and meat drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with herbs, and then baked to perfection under a bell-like dome, or ispod čripnje. You’ll see it listed on menus throughout the region, and if you are lucky enough to be invited into the home of a Dalmatian family, it’s likely that you’ll feast upon it for dinner. It is traditional for Dalmatians to cook peka in their fireplaces at home. Many Croatian families, especially those in the countryside, even have a special oven outdoors for cooking.
During our seven-week sojourn in the delightful seaside town of Trogir, we stayed in a holiday apartment above the Pizzeria Mirkec, which many locals regularly referred to as “the best pizzeria in town.”
Whenever we left our second-floor studio apartment, our olfactory glands were hit with a blend of mouth-watering aromas emanating from the pizzeria. Since I am a gluten-free diner, I did not get to feast upon the pizza or pasta (which my husband, Shawn, still raves about) but one afternoon we did get to enjoy the peka. Since it was a relatively quiet spring day, the staff even showed us how to put together a mouth-watering peka. Lucky for me, it was naturally gluten-free too.
First, Anita washed and sliced a brilliant mélange of vegetables: potatoes, carrots, onions, and zucchini, arranging them in a flat, round tray. Then, she massaged the chicken, lamb and veal with olive oil, salt, pepper, parsley and bay leaves, adding them to the vegetable mixture. She garnished the dish with sprigs of fresh rosemary – the ubiquitous Mediterranean herb that is planted in seemingly every Croatian homeowner’s garden. I’m envious that they can grow it year-round!
With the Pizzeria Mirkec’s wood-burning fire already glowing, and churning out the pizzas that are so beloved with Trogir locals, Anita and the pizzeria’s co-owner, Ivan, carefully placed the peka tray into the oven. Then, they topped the dish with the cripnja, a bell-like lid. Adorning the front of the oven’s chimney was Trogir’s ancient symbol – the Greek Kairos. In Greek mythology, Kairos serves as a reminder to seize life’s fleeting moments – those opportunities when something special can happen.
While we waited for the peka to bake, we enjoyed glasses of red Babić wine, which co-owner Ivan made himself, and talked to the staff about what it is about peka that they like so much.
Their responses had an air of confident brevity.
Ante, one of many staff members whom we’d come to enjoy talking to during those weeks simply said, “It is the most special Dalmatian food.”
Mirko added that peka is the “number one home-cooked meal.”
They explained that though peka is often made in cast-iron dishes today, it was traditionally cooked in earthenware dishes.
Throughout the cooking process, as if heeding the Kairos’ message from overhead, Anita and Mirko checked on the peka, ensuring that it was moist enough. About three quarters of the way through the baking process, Anita and Ivan stirred the meat and added some white wine. Within 15 minutes, we were ushered to Pizzeria Mirkec’s seaside tables, in the shadow of great palm trees. We were eager to taste the hearty Dalmatian dish.
Neither Shawn nor I did much talking initially, because we wanted to savor the incredible flavors and the peka’s exquisitely-tender texture. The dish was wisely paired with a salad (sliced cabbage, beets, cucumber and lettuce) and pita-like bread. It was utterly fantastic. I found myself so relaxed afterwards, after enjoying fantastic food, special wine and Dalmatian sunshine, that I returned to our studio apartment and took a power nap. Talk about comfort food!
If you find yourself in Dalmatia, I encourage you to try peka, and if you’ll be in Trogir, do stop by the Pizzeria Mirkec. If you want to eat peka, be sure to give them two to three hours’ notice, or touch base with them the day before to place your order.
For those of you with a culinary sense of adventure, a basic recipe for peka follows. Shawn also crafted a fun how-to video for making peka, which is included below.
Dobar tek! (Enjoy your meal.)
- 1-1.5 kg meat of your choice (we had chicken, veal and lamb)
- 200 ml olive oil
- 0.8-1kg potatoes, quartered lengthwise
- 2 zucchini, sliced like thick coins
- 1 onion, sliced into eighths
- 4-5 carrots, sliced into 2 cm. segments
- 10 mushrooms, with stems removed
- 1 dollop of shortening
- 100 ml white wine
- salt and pepper to taste
- 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
- dried bay leaf to taste
- dried parsley to taste
- Wash vegetables. Peel carrots, onions and potatoes. Cut the vegetables and salt and pepper them to taste. Set aside.
- Combine the meat and the vegetables in a flat, round tray.
- Pour olive oil on the meat and vegetables and massage it evenly into the food. Add a dollop of shortening.
- Add salt, pepper, dried bay leaf, dried parsley, and sprigs of rosemary to taste.
- Place the bell dome over the dish and place the peka in a wood-burning oven, or under hot embers in a fireplace.
- Check on the peka periodically to make sure that there is enough moisture. Add olive oil as needed. About ¾ of the way through the cooking process, stir the meat and vegetables, spooning the liquid onto them. Add white wine. Cover and return to heat for approximately 15-20 minutes.
- Remove from heat. Serve with fresh, hearty bread and a salad.
- Ajvar is an optional condiment for dipping the meat or bread. (This traditional, roasted pepper condiment is popular in the Balkans.)
Video of this Experience:
Where in the World?
- The Pizzeria Mirkec restaurant is located at Budislaviceva 15 in Trogir. It has indoor seating, plus tables facing the seaside along Trogir’s main promenade. If you go, be sure to order your peka at least three hours in advance by dropping by or calling +385 21 883 042. Tell Ivan, Zoran, and all the staff hello from me, too!
- Are you looking for accommodation in the Split / Trogir area? Shawn and I have spent a total of three winters there, using it as a base to explore Croatia’s popular Dalmatia region:
- The first time, we rented a studio apartment at the Apartments Mirkec (affiliate link) in Trogir. We enjoyed our 7 weeks immensely! The apartment had good Wifi, and a kitchen with all the basics. It was also perfectly situated in the heart of Trogir’s gorgeous Old Town, just a minute’s walk from the seaside walkway (the Riva). Trogir’s bus station was about a 5-minute walk from the Apartments Mirkec, making day trips using mass transportation easy.
- We also spent two winters in holiday apartments in the nearby city of Split. These apartments were in prime locations and would have been in high demand if it was summertime. Our first 2.5 months in Split, we stayed at the lovely Kaleta Apartments (affiliate link), which are located within Diocletian’s Palace. Our elegant studio apartment (called the ‘Diocletian’s Suite’) had lots of character, including Roman brickwork embedded into the wall. We had overhead views of life on Split’s Old Town streets, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly owners, Novica and Negri. Two years later, we returned to Split, but stayed in the Varoš neighborhood at the Guesthouse F (affiliate link). We especially enjoyed the studio apartments’ central location, plus our tiny terrace, and the kindness of our hosts, Anja and Miro. (One of Guesthouse F’s apartments was originally a horseshoe maker’s workshop, owned by Anja’s grandfather. Shawn and I dubbed it the ‘horseshoe cottage’.) Varoš is just a few minutes’ walk from Diocletian’s Palace. With its quirky narrow streets and stone homes decorated with hunter-green shutters and flower boxes, Varoš is charming.
- Visit my Croatia page for more trip tips, plus an index of all my posts about Croatia.
Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved. My husband, Shawn, created the video.