An Ascent at Notre Dame

This autumn, I found my new favorite spot at the Notre Dame Cathedral — the observation deck.

During past visits to Paris, I’ve visited this Gothic masterpiece in varying seasons. Once, I rang in the new year on the edge of the Seine while the magnificent cathedral towered over revelers with her graceful silhouette.

On a chilly winter day, I strolled through her drafty interiors to see her chapels dressed up for Christmas.

During pleasant summer afternoons, I’ve also meandered past her towers as fluffy clouds glided by.

Me and Shawn.

Until recently, my favorite Notre Dame memory was of the sun pouring through the jewel-toned Rose Window just as a musician dramatically tickled the ivories of the thunderous organ. Everything seemed perfectly choreographed as we passed through the immense front doors.

I now love the views from her observation deck the best, for it’s there that I can commune with Viollet-le-Duc’s gargoyles and grotesques and imagine the history that Notre Dame could share if only she could speak.

High above Paris’ rooftops, I think of all the chapters of history the magnificent cathedral has hosted – from the crowning of Napoléon, to numerous royal marriages, to dramatic and damaging attacks during the French Revolution.

As the bells tolled on the hour during our autumn visit, I pondered how Paris’ skyline has changed throughout the centuries, with Sacré Coeur and La Tour Eiffel emerging from the landscape in the nineteenth-century, for example.

I also imagined what Notre Dame’s platform looked like before the extensive restoration, long before the gargoyles took up residence in the 1840s. At times, I thought Quasimodo might even make an appearance near the bell tower’s corner.

Many know Notre Dame largely because of her fictional tie to Victor Hugo’s Hunchback of Notre Damewhich was published in 1831.

It might come as a surprise, though, that the author is actually credited with helping garner support for Notre Dame’s restoration in the 1840s.

Thanks to the novel’s popularity, Parisians came to realize that the cathedral was very much in need of some restorative attention, which it eventually received over the course of two decades, starting in 1845.

Even today, some wonder if one of the chief architects, Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, somehow drew his gargoyle inspiration from Victor’s Hugo’s Quasimodo.

Regardless of the source of the architect’s motivation, Notre Dame’s restoration eventually motivated the French government to take more interest in its ailing monuments, which helped to preserve the nation’s rich architectural heritage.

“Great buildings, like great mountains, are the work of centuries.”

– Victor Hugo

In 1163, Bishop Maurice du Sully laid the first stone for the cathedral’s foundation. The construction would take almost 200 years to complete.

Once the 226-foot (69-meter) towers were in place, Notre Dame was crowned the largest religious building in Western Europe. It would hold this title until the mid-thirteenth-century.

As I admired Notre Dame’s flying buttresses, imposing towers, and intricate details, I found my mind drifting towards some disappointing examples of modern architecture.

In the past, architects and craftsmen created structures that have stood the test of time, using basic scaffolding and rudimentary building tools.

However, many of today’s builders shoddily construct flimsy and characterless architecture, despite having access to sophisticated equipment.

Perhaps the latter could also gain some inspiration from a stroll atop Notre Dame’s platform.

Where in the World?

Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.

Published by Tricia A. Mitchell

Tricia A. Mitchell is a freelance writer and photographer. Born in Europe but raised in the United States, she has lived in Valletta, Malta; Heidelberg, Germany; and Split, Croatia. An avid globetrotter who has visited more than 65 countries, she has a penchant for off-season travel. Tricia has learned that travel’s greatest gift is not sightseeing, rather it is the interactions with people. Some of her most memorable experiences have been sharing a bottle of champagne with distant French cousins in Lorraine, learning how to milk goats in a sleepy Bulgarian village, and ringing in the Vietnamese New Year with a Hanoi family. She welcomes any opportunity to practice French and German, and she loves delving into a place’s history and artisanal food scene. A former education administrator and training specialist, Tricia has a bachelor’s degree in elementary education and a master’s degree in international relations. She and her husband, Shawn, married in the ruins of a snowy German castle. They’ve been known to escape winter by basing themselves in coastal Croatia or Southeast Asia. Her writing has appeared in Fodor’s Travel, Frommer’s, and International Living.

4 thoughts on “An Ascent at Notre Dame

  1. Love these photos and the descriptions and stories about this wonderful cathedral. It is truly a work of art, and just so much fun to discover all the different architectural detail. Great photos too! Thank you!

    1. Hi Katie, thanks for your kind compliments! Europe has so many architectural treasures – it’s a joy appreciating them with the naked eye and also from behind a lens. If you haven’t yet been to Notre Dame, I really recommend that you get up to see the cathedral’s amazing gargoyles. (The link to my black & white images of the famous gargoyles is also on this blog entry.) Those creatures were my favorites!

      Your photography is wonderful, by the way. I really appreciate your emphasis on architectural details and pictures with minimal post-production!

  2. Thanks for reminding me again. In 2003 I visited Paris with my son and we climbed the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame all on the same day. The poor boy was worn out after all those stairs and couldn’t make it out again later for evening meal!

  3. I’m surprised that the lure of French pastries wasn’t enough to lead him out that night following your marathon ascent of Parisian monuments! :) Your tidbit made me smile during this early morning (as I await our movers and the chaos that will soon ensue).

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