During Oberammergau’s peak tourist seasons, visitors can easily while away an hour watching artisans demonstrate their trades on the ground floor of the beautifully frescoed Pilatushaus building.
In past centuries, nomadic traders acquired crafts like these and sold them throughout Europe, making Oberammergau famous for its fine work. Today, travelers can purchase the items directly from the craftsmen and women at the Pilatushaus.
Just before Christmas, my mother and I ventured to the Pilatushaus, pleased to find three craftspeople at work: a woodcarver, coppersmith, and an embroiderer. The brochure we were given noted that more than 50 artisans — including potters, puppet makers, reverse glass painters, and basket weavers — also show off their technique on certain days.
Oberammergau is renowned for its woodcarving, so I especially enjoyed watching a woodcarver (Schnitzer) named Karl Heinz working on creating a graceful angel. He explained that it had taken him several hours to do the initial shaping with an electric saw.
As Herr Heinz chiseled away at the angel’s features by hand, he mentioned that he loved how his non-technical job allowed him to live in a peaceful region like the Ammergauer Alps.
When I heard the great number of hours needed to complete a modest-sized piece, it helped justify the hefty prices I’ve seen for wood-carved figures in Oberammergau’s shops. Generally, such figures cost hundreds of euros.
Next, we observed coppersmith (Kupferschmied) Josef as he showed off his skills on a piece of copper destined to be transformed into a regal eagle. Brass and copper garden stakes topped with horses, angels, and dog figures surrounded Josef.
As I looked at Josef’s work table, I found it remarkable that delicate items — like petaled roses — could be fashioned from such rugged tools.
Josef was quite the social butterfly and offered to take pictures with me and my mom. At one point, he even mischievously took off his Bavarian hat and swapped it with my grey-wool hat.
After the impromptu photo session, Josef kindly offered me the copper bracelet he’d demonstrated how to make earlier.
Our last lesson was with embroiderer (Stickerin) named Coletta. She sported an elegant Dirndl (traditional Bavarian dress), an upswept golden braid, and more accessories with Bavarian flair.
Coletta makes elaborate decorations for monasteries and private buyers using fine, gold metallic thread. One floral creation in progress sitting atop her table had already taken twenty hours to create!
An intricate Christkind display — featuring a wax figurine of a ‘Christ child’ adorned in gold — was priced at more than 500 euros (nearly $700).
We left the exhibition with a greater appreciation of Oberammergau’s artistic heritage, and the desire to get creative ourselves. Perhaps follow-up lessons with Josef, Colette, and Karl Heinz are in order!
Where in the World?
Planning Pointers:
- The exhibition — called Lebende Werkstatt (Living Workshop) — is housed in Oberammergau’s Pilatushaus building at Ludwig-Thoma-Strasse 10. The telephone number is 08822-949511. Check the website for current exhibition dates and opening hours. Workshop admission is free.
- Oberammergau is located 90 km (55 miles) southwest of Munich. To get there by mass transit, research the Bayern Ticket (website is in German, but you can use Google Translate). As of 2021, these tickets start at €25 for one passenger, and cost €8 for each additional passenger. You can use the Bayern Ticket for most trains, trams, and city buses, making it a good deal if you’ll be doing a lot of exploring in one day. You can purchase tickets online, via a ticket machine, or in person.
- Are you looking for a guesthouse or hotel in Oberammergau? Here is my round-up of hotels, organized by theme.
- Visit my Germany page for more trip tips. If you’re seeking more ideas about what to do in this part of Bavaria, here are all my posts about Oberammergau.
Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved.
Travels With Tricia 
Wow! Simply stunning photos of such amazing art.
Thank you, Eclecticlamb. It was a joy watching talented souls at work.
You can see the love in everything those artisans do, :-)
Very true, Anyes! Watching them was a great inspiration for me to revisit some of my favorite activities. What are some of your favorite activities/hobbies?
Taking photographs and writing, if only there was more hours in the day :-)
Wow, very interesting and beautiful. Love the hats!
We frequently spot some residents sporting hats like this when we’re out and about. It’s great to see that so much tradition is still alive here.
This is a delightful post, Tricia. As always, the perfect blend of travelogue, culture and personal. I am glad to see traditional craftworks being sold for prices that reflect the lifetime’s skill and work put into them. I think often these days crafts are undervalued – we all want them but tend not to expect to pay much for them.
What a kind thing to say, Rachael! I do aim to provide a blend of all three.
You’re spot on about the prices artisans deserve for their work! I wonder how many people today would have such patience to devote to these crafts? Hopefully it will not be a lost art.
Tricia this is so a wonderful post. Good Husband and I put our heads together to share this post. Every photograph was a delight. V.
Virginia, thank you to you and your hubby for letting me know that you enjoyed a glimpse into the artisans’ workshops! Knowing you, I have a feeling that the post inspired you to delve into some of your many creative projects.
What divine craftsmanship. True artists in their own right and who will they pass this on to? It is so difficult to make a living but I admire those who do. There is nothing like watching a woodcarver using mallet and chisels.
Lynne, I agree with you wholeheartedly! Tradition seems to be kept alive here in many ways, so I hope that generation of artisans that we observed will pass on their skills.
Great post and great to see craftspeople at work.
Happy to hear you enjoyed it, Mark! Here in Oberammergau, the woodcarving shops are plentiful, but the finished product means a lot more when one knows how much work has gone into its production. What patience the artisans have.
What a wonderful post! I love all the details of craft work. The pictures are beautiful.
Glad you enjoyed it, Judy! Being the avid baker, you probably would’ve loved the Spekulatius cookies they had to sample. Being gluten-free I couldn’t give them a whirl, but they looked tasty.
What a fascinating place to visit and beautifully illustrated here by your photos.
Many thanks, Kat. I’m so glad to have family here so that we can visit during different seasons.
Very well captured Tricia, those artists are quite characters, their art is just beautiful and they are just so dedicated to what they are creating This is all part of my childhood.
Thank you, Cornelia; I’m glad the post brought back memories from your childhood.
I’m curious – did you learn any traditional Bavarian crafts when you were growing up?
Such wonderful artistry, Tricia, beautifully captured.
Thanks so much, Jo. It’s a joy learning about how things are made, then sharing the glimpses/ lessons with others here. :)
What a delightful way to spend an afternoon! Your pictures are absolutely gorgeous. Thank you for sharing Tricia.
And it was made even more lovely since I spent it with my mother. :) Glad you enjoyed a glimpse of the artisans at work, Madhu. You’ll have to come to Oberammergau in the warmer weather to see the workshops.
How wonderful carvings! I admire the skills of the person who made them. In Finland we make carvings, but not so beautiful. Wonderful post!
Here are two examples from my posts:
Wooden art1.
Wooden art2.
Ours are very rustic, but we love them.