Travels with Tricia

As our friend’s car propelled us up the jagged slopes of Kozjak Mountain in Croatia’s Dalmatia region, we struggled to steady our cameras enough to document the increasingly-magnificent view. Simultaneously fearing for the health of my friend’s tires which risked being ruptured on the rocky dirt road, I marveled at the panorama along this stretch of Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. In the late-afternoon sunlight, the Adriatic Sea twinkled, and despite technically being wintertime, it called us to take a plunge.

The limestone hills overlooking seaside Split and Kaštela wore a blend of foliage. Some trees sported withering, rust-colored leaves from the past season, and others prematurely exhibited pastel blooms and berries. As our Croatian friends had been telling us for weeks, the winter had been unusually warm, raising concern that the flora would be adversely impacted should another cold snap roll in. Given that so many locals dabble in the Mediterranean tradition of winemaking and olive oil production, this did not come as a surprise.

On these hills overlooking Croatia’s Dalmatia region, we’d come to continue our search for Zinfandel’s genetic roots along with winemaker Anton Kovač and wine enthusiast and entrepreneur, Srđan Mitrović. A year earlier when we’d met the duo on a wine tour, they’d regaled us with tales of the hunt for Zinfandel’s roots, tossing out names like Crljenak Kaštelanski (the Zinfandel grape’s Croatian name) and Mike Grgich.

They had also piqued our curiosity when they pointed to a church off in the distance which once contained records that attested to Zinfandel having been grown in the area for at least 1,000 years. We wanted very much to visit that little church upon spotting it, but time did not allow during our first visit. On this day, we fulfilled our vow to return.

Once we’d started exploring the area on foot and arrived at the church, Srđan and Anton told us about the history of the area.

“In the 9th Century, the village of Putalj and the Saint George Church were built here. Over time, the boundary between the Venetian and Ottoman Empires crossed through here. In the 15th century, fearing for their security, the residents abandoned the area and moved closer to the sea, settling in present-day Kaštel Sućurac,” Anton explained.

Though he’d been to the picturesque spot many times, Anton still exuded enthusiasm during our maiden visit – perhaps not surprising since Anton’s winery, Putalj, acquired its name from the church, along with its logo of St. George slaying a dragon.

My family has worked with wine for several generations, and I studied it, but no one can teach you like your experience. Experience is the best teacher.”

– Anton Kovač

During our three months in Split, we’d have several weekend meet-ups with Anton at his Kaštel Sućurac winery, trying his fantastic wine straight from the barrels and tanks, and savoring a bottle while enjoying one of Dalmatia’s signature dishes known as peka. Though initially apprehensive about trying an octopus version of this dish, which is famously cooked under a bell-like lid in a wood-burning fire, I was rewarded for my culinary sense of adventure. Like all the vegetables cooked to melt-in-your-mouth perfection under the bell, the octopus was tender and buttery-flavored.

As we enjoyed that meal, we chatted about Anton’s passions, namely winemaking and even olive oil-production but also klapa, a kind of a cappella singing that’s incredibly popular in Dalmatia.

“I started singing when I was born,” Anton joked, as we swirled our glasses of garnet-colored Zinfandel. “Along with seven other men from my town we have klapa practice twice a week.”

With the subject inevitably turning to wine, I asked Anton how long his family had been making wine.

Anton mentioned that his grandfather had immigrated to California for a time, eventually recognizing that some of the same types of grapes as he’d known in Croatia were being grown across the ocean.

“He had a good wine business during prohibition times, but eventually returned to Croatia. My family has worked with wine for several generations, and I studied it, but no one can teach you like your experience. Experience is the best teacher.”

Our Video of This Experience:

Where in the World?

Planning Pointers:

• To schedule an individual or customized excursion like this one, touch base with Anton and the Art of Wine.
• If you’ll be staying in Split for a few days, you might be interested in the Split Card, which gives you free entry to certain museums and galleries, and reduced rates to others.
• Need more inspiration as you plan your excursions in Split and beyond? This link contains an index of all my posts from Croatia.

Accommodation in the Split Area:

Shawn and I have spent a total of five winters and one summer in and around the city of Split, using it as a base to explore Croatia’s popular Central Dalmatia region. We’ve made it a habit to create new memories by staying in a different property each year. Over the years, we’ve had long-term stays in Split, Trogir, Solin, and Makarska. We would happily revisit all of the following apartments. (Please note that some are affiliate links.)

• Kaleta Apartments (Split) – These lovely apartments are located within Diocletian’s Palace (well, technically just a few meters from the Iron Gate). Our elegant studio apartment, called the “Diocletian’s Suite,” had lots of character — including Roman brickwork embedded into the wall. We had overhead views of life on Split’s Old Town streets, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly owners, Novica and Negri. We spent about 2.5 months here.
• Guesthouse F (Split) – This cozy studio apartment is located in Split’s Varoš neighborhood, just a few minutes’ walk from Diocletian’s Palace. With its quirky narrow streets and stone homes decorated with hunter-green shutters and flower boxes, Varoš is charming. One of Guesthouse F’s apartments was originally a horseshoe maker’s workshop, owned by Anja’s grandfather. Shawn and I dubbed it the “horseshoe cottage.” Aside from our central location, we loved having a tiny terrace. We also appreciated the kindness of our hosts, Anja and Miro. In total, we spent about 2 months here.
• Viola Apartment (Split) – We spent roughly 3 months in this wonderful 2-bedroom apartment, which is also in the Varoš neighborhood of Split. The apartment also has a lovely sun porch and garden. It is in an old stone home, but the interior has recently been remodeled. We were in a perfect location for accessing Diocletian’s Palace and Marjan Forest Park, too. On foot, it takes about six minutes to reach Split’s most famous lookout point near the Caffe Bar Vidilica. The owner, Ljubica, lives upstairs. She is easygoing and helpful.
• Apartments Mirkec (Trogir) – We spent 7 wonderful weeks in this studio apartment, which is located in the heart of the town of Trogir. The apartment had good Wifi and a kitchen with all the basics. It was also perfectly situated in the heart of Trogir’s gorgeous Old Town, just a minute’s walk from the seaside walkway, the Riva. Trogir’s bus station was about a 5-minute walk from the Apartments Mirkec, making day trips using mass transportation easy. Note: As of 2025, I think this apartment has permanently closed. However, the owner’s popular restaurant (Pizzeria Mirkec), which is located underneath the apartment, is still cooking up delicious pizzas in their wood-fired pizza oven.
• Apartments Vesna (Makarska) – This 1-bedroom apartment was our home for about 12 months. The apartment is on the top floor and features skylights. A small balcony on the back of the apartment overlooks Makarska’s harbor — the views of Makarska’s dramatic mountains are wonderful! It takes about 8 minutes to reach Makarska’s bus station on foot. In a matter of minutes, you can also walk to Makarska’s Riva (seaside promenade), several grocery stores, restaurants, and cafés. The owners, Mise and Anna, are exceptionally friendly and helpful.

Photography & text © Tricia A. Mitchell. All Rights Reserved. My husband, Shawn, created the video.